may 2022

The Ozarks

Where:  northern Arkansas/southern Missouri

Directions: US 76 and US 412 from east and west; I-49 from south and north

Good to Know:

* Originating in the Boston Mountains and edged by dramatic bluffs that reach as high as 500 feet, the Buffalo National River was America’s first national river. Dogs aren’t allowed in the park. Maybe someday.

* Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, a premier collection opened to the public free of charge by the Walton family and nestled into 120 acres of Ozark forest, does allow dogs on its five miles of trail. 

Why so good:   

The Ozarks were formed by volcanic eruptions more than a billion years ago, some of the oldest mountains on earth. They are so old and so eroded that today none of the “peaks” that cover 50,000 square miles in four states (mostly Arkansas and Missouri) reach 3,000 feet. Instead of soaring mountaintops the Ozarks are characterized by crystal clear streams fed by underground springs and more caves than any region in the United States...

BEST HIKE ON THE ROOF OF THE OZARKS WITH YOUR DOG.

White Rock Mountain. Somehow the Civilian Conservation Corps found their way to this remote mountaintop in the 1930s and constructed a handful of rustic cabins and a bunkhouse lodge. They also laid out a two-mile trail loop around the rim of White Rock Mountain that is one long continuous 360-degree view for your dog. The native stone shelters perched on the bluffs are particularly beautiful; watch for sheer drop-offs - they continue on forever as well.

BEST HIKE TO A WATERFALL WITH YOUR DOG.

Mina Sauk Falls. Your dog can score a two-fer here: the highest point in Missouri and the highest waterfall. The trek to the summit of Taum Sauk Mountain is an easy one, things get a bit rougher as the three-mile trail continues to seasonal Mina Sauk Falls. When the water is cascading over the series of rock ledges the 132-foot drop is the tallest in the Show Me State.

BEST RIVER TO CANOE WITH YOUR DOG.

Current River and Jacks Fork River. These two adjoining rivers provide more than 134 miles of spring-fed waters, typically flowing at an easy-going Class II level. If you don’t have your own canoe there are 19 concessionaires along the rivers to provide canoe rentals and shuttle service..

BEST HIKE TO A CAVE WITH YOUR DOG.

Devil’s Den State Park. Packed with unusual natural rock formations, this was one of the first sites chosen for a state park in Arkansas in the 1930s. The signature Devil’s Den Trail covers 1.5 miles with less than a 100-foot elevation gain and leads to Devil’s Den Cave, Devil’s Ice Box and trailside crevices. The caves are safe to explore so bring a flashlight to help your dog poke around. Across the creek the Yellow Rock Trail is less crowded and wanders past more of the Devil’s “possessions” in old-growth woodlands.

BEST HIKE TO CIRCLE A LAKE WITH YOUR DOG.  

Crane Lake. This double-loop National Recreation Trail around clear blue 100-acre Crane Lake is lightly used which means two things, one good and one bad. There is lots of room for your dog to roam and the leaf-littered footpath through the dense white oak forest (primarily on the east side) can be hard to follow. The northern loop covers three miles and circumnavigates the lake with the water in view most of the time, especially from the fire road on the west side. The southern loop is a two-miler below the dam passing through a series of glades and rocky areas, the traverse of which can be tricky for overly cautious dogs.

BEST HIKE TO VIEWS WITH YOUR DOG.

Pedestal Rocks. You will seldom have to spend such little effort to purchase such exhilarating views as here in Ozark National Forest. A modestly rolling 2.2-mile loop leads through the forest to the Pedestal Rocks, ancient columns of weathered limestone that have broken along the bluff line. Careful with your dog along these unprotected cliffs that sweep around the hillside. You should have plenty of energy remaining to take the neighboring 1.7-mile neighboring loop to King’s Bluff, a massive slab of rock that serves up a waterfall and more views across the valley.

BEST SWIMMING HOLE FOR YOUR DOG.

Blue Spring Trail. There are two Blue Springs of note in Mark Twain National Forest; the better known is the 90-million gallon per day spring that feeds the Current River and is the state’s deepest and bluest spring. This environmentally sensitive area forbids swimming. The better choice for your water-loving dog is the Blue Spring on the North Fork White River, 16 miles west of West Plains. A scenic half-mile loop from the campground leads to the oval natural spring nestled in a dramatic rock amphitheater. It averages a flow of seven million gallons per day of cold clear water. If your dog is feeling frisky after a dip in the 57-degree water he can tackle the Devil’s Backbone Trail in this wilderness area.

MOST HISTORIC HIKE WITH YOUR DOG.

Prairie Grove Battlefield. Civil War battles in the Ozarks in 1862 determined the destiny of the state of Missouri to remain in the Union. Pea Ridge, northeast of Rogers, Arkansas, was the biggest battlefield west of the Mississippi River. The fate of Arkansas was less certain and it was tussled over east of the town of Prairie Grove on December 7, 1862. Both sides claimed victory as more than 2,500 troops fell during the fighting. Now a state park, you can walk your dog around 130 acres of one of America’s bestpreserved battlefields, including the historic Borden House, the scene of the most deadly fire fights that day.

BEST ONE-HOUR WORKOUT FOR YOUR DOG.

Robinson Point Trail. You don’t have to search too hard for a good workout for your dog in the Ozarks - you are in the mountains after all. What sets this one apart is Norfork Lake, which this National Recreation Trail skips beside. One of the many offerings from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in the Ozark Mountains, this 1.5-miler gives your dog a chance for a refreshing swim on the way out to Robinson Point, a high bluff overlooking the heart of Lake Norfork, and on the way back home.

BEST TOWN TO STAY TO HIKE A VARIETY OF SHORT TRAILS WITH YOUR DOG.

Eminence. Two miles to the north the Missouri Department of Conservation maintains a one-mile, stacked loop journey through a Missouri hollow on the Lick Log Trail. Five miles to the west is postcard pretty Alley Mill where your dog can enjoy a leisurely stroll around Alley Spring and an energetic climb on the 1.5-mile Alley Overlook Trail that tops off with an overlook directly over the spring and mill. To the east, trails hard by the Current River lead to Blue Spring Natural Area, one of America’s deepest blue springs and a spur road takes your dog to the delightful plunge pool of Rocky Falls. A bit further away, to the southeast, is Big Spring, where 276 million gallons of water per day pour out from under a hillside. The overlook trail at this spring has been unmaintained of late and doesn’t look over the spring but the stone path is easy to follow and a good outing for your dog.